Choli Ke Peeche Kya Hai? (Part Two)

Last post we started off with the choli and ended at the mock-up.

So that's where we'll pick up.

My mock up had a few issues, not major, but in general, they affected the whole thing in a way I didn't care for.

The arms were a tad too tight around the bit right where the gusset met both ends of the sleeve at the point. I "remedied" this the wrong way; by adding an entire inch of fabric to each side of the sleeve and an inch to the shorter side of the right triangle on the gusset.

The mock up pieces used as the pattern for the silk. All cut out, including the unnecessary additional 2" to the sleeve

That was too much fabric, especially considering this will be worn under something that will have tighter sleeves. So I ended up taking almost the complete additional two inches off the sleeve itself, and I think the gusset went back to it's original measurement. That's ok though, it's better I used too much than too little.

In addition to this, I also took another inch or so off of the sleeve on the hem-end so it had a more tapered and fitted look.


The next issue is the cup fit. Now as of this post, I've not remedied it yet, but I suspect things will work out much better if I shorten the "short" straight side of the top of the cup.

This should theoretically bring my bosom up and out to where it's supposed to be, instead of smooshing it up against my chest.

The Mughals were not fond of smooshed breasts, and neither am I.

You see in addition that all my pieces are being pinked with my rotary pinking tool. I am not lining this right now, and I don't know when I'll be able to get around to it, so I'm pinking it for now to make things go faster and assure the item doesn't become destroyed.

Hooray for the rotary pinker! I don't care that it's old and rusty, in fact, that's kind of why I like it.

There's also puckering at the breasts. And that's because of the fact that curved seams matched up to straight seams are a, pardon my language, bitch.

The tell-tale puckering

This problem should resolve itself when I go on to hand sewing the next choli, as hand sewing has a smaller seam allowance and affords a bit more control over the bitchiness that is puckering.

Now I have extra fabric from this garment, which is good news for trimming it with the ties. At least I hope. Now everything can be the same ugly dingy flesh color and not stand out too much under any kurta it may be worn with in the future.

 What will eventually become the finishing edges and ties. It's NOT bias-cut, I don't want to deal with stretch and making bias tape.

So far the whole thing is ready for its final assembly, boob-bits to sleeve, close up the center front, try on....

I'm going to go ahead and try my boob-cup theory when I assemble tomorrow, but for now it's 2:45am here, and I've got a lot to do. So I'll leave it at that. The next post should have this finished hideous beast and then we can be on to more interesting things.