Constructing an Elegant Entari (part 2)

Yay! Progress despite the heat and general mayhem!

It really has been unbearably hot here the past few days, and all the driving we've been doing this weekend for pattern sales, helping our friend find a car, and getting lost in the wilderness looking for wine.... it's been crazy! And that's coming from an LA girl who's used to heat, smog, driving, general mayhem, and whatnot.....

So the Entari now measures 65" long on the lining, 55" long on the silk. The trim is underway, but it's proving difficult. I've managed the sleeves alright, but the curves are tedious and difficult to navigate at times.

Cutting the scallop/wave pattern

I wish for facilities sake I had undergone straight edging, but I know the finished product will be better this way. Besides, I want this entari to be special and different from any future "casual" (and by that I mean shorter and straight cut) style ones that may come along in the future.

 What makes the yellow one in the first picture more special from the yellow one in the second picture? The length and the trim of course! (Though granted the yellow one on the right may actually have a different "proper" name for itself other than "entari", but I can't recall if I imagined it or not)

I did make a mistake in cutting the sleeve lining. I  cut it at 35" instead of 36". This wasn't a big issue as I initially thought, and it was easily remedied (SPOILER: I sewed an additional piece of fabric at the top of the lining where it would never be seen)

I then proceeded to make out the "pattern" for the trim and transfer it onto the sleeves.

Making the curved pattern for transfer on improvised "graph" paper. It served its purpose despite being a bit wonky.

While I'm on the topic of sleeves and trimming, I'd take this moment to say that I absolutely HATE piping.

It's never as simple and straightforward as it should be.

And that's HOW the trim for this thing is to be inserted, via piping method, because the fabric curves too much to be able to simply tack it on then fold over the lining to match and finish it.

 The only way.... NOOOOO

These curves are proving to be very difficult too. I've trimmed the sleeves, but the exaggeration of the curves is just making it a nightmare to "finish" properly. I've had to notch every single little bit of the damn thing to keep it from pulling or fighting, and it's not even working 100%.

I originally thought this entari would be pretty straight forward. Something that, if I were paid commission to make it, would not cost more than $200 in labor (The same amount I used to charge for a plain ol' custom made Regency/Romantic Era gown + petticoat/supportive slip.)

However, I now am positive that labor wise this pretty puppy would run at least twice that, and it's because of this trimming.

I do NOT enjoy this bit of sewing, and it may actually cause delays in blogging since it's eating up all my time, and time is something I don't have a lot of, as this  gorgeous devil, along with a dancer's angrakha, man's angrakha, choli, fur-trimmed sleeveless caftan, waistcoat, and Qajar man's khaftan (all still awaiting their turn) are scheduled to be sent off to a presentation in a few months.